There are some things that I don’t like about this video–such as the belaboring of the prep before surfing. But there are some things that I love about it. Like that moment where the first wave passes over him and all the sand is washed away…it’s just perfect. And then, seeing him in the water moving so fluidly…I know that feeling so well.
How can I explain what it means to be in water? To be the only place where gravity doesn’t pull and tug in ways that make movement difficult? In the water, on the water, under the water–I am a fish and my legs (or lack thereof) no longer matter.
The other thing I like about this video–how it shows the innovative things that Michael does to allow him to surf–such as balancing the end of the board on the fence near the car…So cool.